Tuesday, January 7, 2020

Clogs, Sabots and Sabotage




Traditional clogs may have a workman like past with only a brief flirtation with high fashion but for many they remain a sexy shoe appreciated by both males and females. There are several societies devoted to the appreciation of clogs (cloggies) . From the available literature it seems many admirers are attracted to the footwear because they have seen someone of the opposite sex wearing them. This may suggest an initial attraction is the idea of uni-sex dressing. Terms like "feeling sexy", "appearing attractive to others", or "exuding power in stature" appear popular reasons for wearing clogs. Most males consider clogs as mainstream fashion for females but cheeky and avante garde for men. Many associated shoes with the wearer indicating men pay particular attention to their partner's attire. Some cloggies love the sound they make and others revel in the different materials they are made from. Most wearers insist it is the comfort of the style which draws them to clogs. "Dipping " describes the action of feet sliding in and out of clogs. This habit is reportedly much appreciated by foot partialists and fetishists, alike.



The history of clogs is long and honourable one. Starting life as overshoes or galoshes the evergreen footwear has been part of the evolution of the modern exercise sandal and platform shoe. The shoe type has been associated with poverty and initiatives to promote wearing clogs have always met with disappointment. Perhaps because it is the shoe of ordinary people its many names are onomatopoeic. The wooden shoe does however have many admirers.

Footnote



A common misconception relates to the etymology of "sabotage" and how it relates to clogs (or sabatage). A popular misunderstanding is Luddites threw their wooden shoes (or sabots) into the machines to break them up. Hence. they sabotaged the machinery. However, Sabot in French not only refers to wooden clogs but also railway sleepers and in all probability disgruntled French workers in 1912 cut the railway tracks and used the sabots (sleepers) to destroy industrial equipment.

Reviewed 08/01/2020

Sunday, January 5, 2020

Wooden Clogs: fashion and fashionista




Wooden clogs have rarely ever been fashionable despite their comfort. Always associated with the working class, even after the French Revolution, when the sabot was taken as national dress of the Citizens of France, the costume was later changed to leather shoes. Wooden shoes remain popular throughout the Nordic countries and are worn by both men and women, yet only fleetingly make it to the fashionable catwalks of New York, Rome and Paris.



During the Second World War shortages in Europe meant leather was no longer available for boots and shoes. Instead governments encouraged people to turn to wooden soled shoes as a practical solution. Although fashion magazines patriotically photographed their top models wearing them it failed to persuade others to follow suit. By then most people associated clogs with working-class poverty and were less inclined to adopt them as a fashionable clothing. Even when the middle classes were eventually forced to wear clogs it was very much under duress. sm and marginalisation to previ



In Occupied Countries some black marketeers were reported to wear clogs which had shoe prints going the opposite way. This was thought to be an attempt to confuse authorities trying to follow them. Black marketeer’s clogs were also reputed to contain secret compartments to hide clandestine contraband and or information.



The hey day for clogs as fashionable shoes came briefly in the 1970s when the supergroup Abba were popular. Although the group are better known for their platform boots they were also photographed many times wearing wooden clogs. A popular line of fashion clogs followed which had the ABBA logo stamped on the outer side of the soles.



Actor and singer Adam Faith loved wearing clogs especially in his most famous television role of Cockney larrikin, ‘Budgie’ Bird in Budgie.



Another clog devotees is Brian May (Queen): and Whoopi Goldberg was seen wearing them in several of her movies including Made in America.



Clogs shaped shoes made their presence felt in late 20th century fashion, thanks mainly to the colourful rebellious street fashions of Japan. Rebellious youth keen to break with the traditional Japanese concept of beauty and dress wore colourful make up and clothes to match including bright hued clogs.



Initially these were 'poo pooed' by the fashion cognoscenti, until plastic slip-on clogs started to cross over into everyday wear, particularly favoured by travelors, keen not to be held up at security check points.



Crocs rode waves of criticism to prevail and now, once again (new polymer) clogs, the shoes of the proletariat, can be seen on high fashion catwalks around the globe.



(Video Courtesy: WarmerMusicVideos Youtube Channel)


Reviewed 9/09/2018

Wednesday, January 1, 2020

Clog Dancing: A brief history




Clog dancing became very popular in Victorian times among the working class people in the North of England. The hardwearing wood against the cobbled streets allowed the dancer to create rhythm by tapping with the toes and heels. To make the clog lighter the uppers were cut lower at the ankle and the soles made from ash wood.



Dancers required to be nimble because the steps were complex. Solo dancers danced on a slab of hardwearing wood that made a ringing sound. Amateur dancers added drama to their performance by using metal tags, nailed to their soles, which caused sparks to appear. Clog dancing was mainly a male preserve with troops of male clog dancers found all over the North of England. Gradually however female clog dancers became very popular in music halls.



One of the most famous professional clog dancing troupe were J.W. Jackson's Eight Lancashire lads. A young Charlie Chaplain joined the troupe in 1896 and was paid one pound sterling per week plus his keep.



Clog dancing was introduced to US, towards the end of the nineteenth century, where upon it was quickly transformed into tap dancing. The mania swept from coast to coast. At first the tap shoe was a modified clog but later these were replaced with tap shoes with metal jingles. Initially tap dancing was a male preserve but soon became popular with women and chorus lines.



The girls wore special shoes known as Mary Janes, kept on with ankle straps fasten with a buckle or button. The shoes were often split clogs with half a sole and the heel in wood. To emphasise the sound some shoes had jingles attached to the shank. When the heels hit the floor they made a sound like two coins struck together.


(Video Courtesy: bogardesbar Youtube Channel)


Clog dancing still can be seen at traditional folk festivals and dance exhibitions all over the world.

Reviewed 2/01/2020

A brief review of Clog Makers




Clogs incorporate many styles from slip-ons to lacing. Blutcher and Derby style lacing clogs are especially popular and well-known companies continue to make them. These include the long established Swedish firm Troentorptoffel who produce clogs in Bastad (pronounced bow-stodd). Mia Clogs and Olaf Daughters (now closed) were Swedish producers of popular lines throughout the 60s, 70s, and 80s. Berkemann is a well-known German company and make orthopaedic clogs; Danish clog makers, Dansko and Sanita still produce quality clogs.



The successful secret of all shoes is the tread line across the ball of the foot which results when the heel height and toe spring are matched. The rigid lever of the shoe allows the foot to pivot against the ground during stance phase and propel effortlessly forward. Clogs shaped to meet the contours of the sole of the foot further reduce peak pressures across the area and give the shoe added comfort.



The same principal was used with exercise sandals, popularised by Dr Scholl in the sixties and seventies.



Critics of clogs frequently dismiss them as improper footwear for general wear on the basis they do not provide adequate support to the foot during locomotion. Provided clogs fit with the tread line and ball of the foot in close approximation, then the shoes provide the same functional support as any other. For those navigating reasonably flat surfaces and at a leisurely pace clogs provide adequate protection for most active people.



There is a Conformite Europeenne (CE) classification for the Dutch clog. This was awarded in 1997 when the Netherlands organisation for Applied Scientific Research published safety requirement, results. According to CE regulations clogs must be able to withstand temperatures of -20 degrees C to 150 degrees C without degrading; they should support peak pressures of 75kg and water should not destroy the soles. In the original tests pressure of 400kg on the instep and 750 kg on the nose of the clog failed to make an impression, and lastly the clog endured the fall of a blunt axe of 20kg from a height of 50 cm. people. More information s available from the Morris Federation home page.

Further Reading
Time to put my feet up! Clog-maker who runs father-and-son business finally closes the doors after 65 years making wooden shoes
History of Walkley Clogs

Reviewed 7/09/2018

Wednesday, October 2, 2019

Madreñas : Wooden overshoes




The mountainous areas of Northern Spain (Galicia, Asturias, Catabria and the Basque Country) and Castilla and Leon, Aragon and Catalonia, have a humid climate with a lot of rain which makes roads and fields very muddy. Traditional footwear local to these regions include madreñas which are wooden over shoes. Soles include added blocks to lift the feet from the mud. The shoes were made locally by village craftsmen and are highly decorated with carvings or painting. The design is usually different for men and women.



Madreñas are similar to Dutch and Sweden clogs and made from a single piece of wood of green alder, beech, walnut or less often brown poplar.


(Video Courtesy: Cultura Gijón Xixón Youtube Channel)


Thursday, August 15, 2019

Guốc Mộc : Vietnamese wooden sandals




Guốc Mộc are sandals worn by Vietnamese and considered by many as a national dress. The earliest reference to sandals was in the third century, when a Vietnamese resistance leader called Ba Trieu wore ivory clogs. Experts believe it took until the Tran Dynasty (1407-1409) before bamboo sandals made from bamboo roots were worn by the population who up until this time went unshod.



Bamboo sandals were usually kept for festivals or visiting friends and wooden clogs were worn at home. These were usually homemade and had thick soles with slightly turned-up tips. The straps, which attached through a hole in the front and a pair of holes on the sides, were braided from soft cloth.



The curved sole meant the knot of the front strap did not rub on the ground. The soles of women's clogs were shaped like hour-glasses, while sampan clogs (men's clogs) had straight soles. The white wood was left unpainted but well-to-do people would have their clogs painted in black and brown with a pale coloured triangle on the side of the sole. In some areas clogs were known as ‘dons” and a common saying was "a foot with a shoe, a foot with a don" to indicate rich people who put on airs.



Before the August Revolution in 1945, clogs produced in Hue were called "capital clogs" or guoc kinh. These clogs had soles made from coconut shells or light wood, painted white and gold with embroidered straps.



The Guoc Viet (wooden sandals) became more popular under the French Rule during the Nguyen Dynasty (1858 -1945). At first rich town dwellers wore the new wooden sandals before the costume eventually spread to rural workers. Generally school children wore clogs up until the 1940s. Guoc Viet were made in craft villages in the northern provinces of Bac Ninh and Ha Tay, and Thanh Tri and Thanh Xuan districts in Ha Noi. The sandals were made from a special wood called mit because of its light weight, strength and durability. Sandals varied from the very expensive to the cheap and cheerful. Most people kept their better sandals for special and solemn occasions and they were often worn with traditional ao dai dresses. Gradually the wooden sandal was replaced with designer fashion.



Traditional wooden sandals are still available and can be bought in the market places for about VND40,000 (US$2.50). It is common for tourists to combine their favourite sandal sole with an attractive strap and the sandal merchants will nail the shoes to order. More fashionable sandals are now available and made from the wood of the bead-tree, fir and coral tree. Bead-tree wood is considered the best quality as it does not easily break or bend. It is also a heavy wood and so some manufacturers use fir tree wood because it is a lighter wood. Artisans shape the sandal then they are painted with a glossy paint, before decorations are drawn onto the surface.


(Video Courtesy: RFA Tiếng Việt by Youtube Channel)


The Vietnamese poet To Huu considered the zither like sound made by young girls and their wooden shoes to be a romantic.


(Video Courtesy: Lê Tâm by Youtube Channel)


During the American War in Vietnam, Viet Cong wore sandals made from tyre rubber with the sandal soles reversed to confuse anyone following in their footsteps through the Củ Chi tunnels.


(Video Courtesy: turtleface77 by Youtube Channel)


More Information
Wooden sandals come back with pizzaz Viet Nam News 2006. Reviewed 16/08/2019

Who could ask for anything more?